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BladeRunner
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Joined: Feb 03, 2008
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Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:03 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Audi A6 2.5 TDI AEL / AAT Cruise control retro fitting guide

This guide will help you to enable the factory cruise control system on this model. (images are links to full size versions)


Overview

This car is “fly by wire” which essentially means no physical throttle cable, it is electronically controlled the throttle position along with speed and various other sensors supply the ECU with information and then it determines correct fuelling for given speed, load, engine speed, etc, etc.

The advantage is a more efficient and better running engine, hence the very good economy of this model. A lot, if not all diesels are now done this way but this model was the first, and Audi made sure it was very high quality, as such it’s generally bullet-proof.

Another advantage of this "fly by wire" system is the cruise control is built into the ECU. It was however an option on this model and most do not have it fitted, (knowing Audi I doubt it was a cheap option).

The only parts missing are the column stalk with switches for the cruise, (it replaces the standard indicator switch), and the wiring loom from this switch to the ECU.

There are 6 wires from the switch which I’ll detail below, and once they are connected to the correct ECU connector pins, (2 go to the same pin, & one is a +12v 15amp ignition supply), the cruise control simply needs enabling in the ECU with Vag Com to work as if factory fitted.

Clutch & brake switches are already present and wired in, so why on earth the extra couple of quid required too include the loom was saved is anyone’s guess?


Parts Required

Column Stalk with cruise for A6 C4, (including stalk plug with pins)

Wires (5 colours) about 2.2 meter lengths

4 ECU connector pins

Vag Com with VAS 505 1/2 Adapter, (and a PC or Laptop)

General tooling screwdrivers, wire cutters, soldering equipment or scotch locks etc.....

---------------------------------------------------------------

Column stalk

Column stalk with cruise control switches, (petrol models are the same. pn 4D0 953 513C), You can also use the cruise stalk from other models, (audi 80? early 100?), but steering column hole will be smaller so you would need to swap it into your housing, (not a 5 min job), see image 4 below for codes on rear of stalk.. (443 953 513J is one you can use for this, as an example)




(thanks to Beerbelly for stalk images)

Breakers yard is best, where if they are happy to let you cut the loom you can also get the plug. If not it can be ordered from Audi at minimal cost... (pn 443 971 635, plug comes without pins these are also available you need 6)



Wires (5 colours)

Some old wiring loom or new wires, (5 colours ideally). I now use trailer lighting cable at less than £1 a meter its ideal, with 7 wires it has all the colours you'll need. Loom requires about a 1.8 metre length so it can be run neatly. (red wire at ECU end needs to be about 400mm longer to run to supply fuse..



ECU pins

ECU pins these are very hard to get out of the plug! I cut some out of an old loom, ABS ECU & ABS pump unit have some of the same pins too, again Audi can supply these, you need 4, (note additional length of red wire in the below image)



Vag Com

Vag Com with VAS 505 1/2 "2x2" Adapter for Older Cars, (and a PC or Laptop). I used a proper Ross Tech Vag Com cable with license software, not a cheap eBay version.. (a cheap version may work, but I can only recommend the proper Ross Tech version)

Ross Tech

If you don't have, or want to buy Vag Com find someone local that has Vag Com. It’s very simple and will take 10 mins at most to do. If you are near Chesterfield I can do it for you free of charge.


Fitting Cruise Stalk

To fit the new cruise stalk you need to remove airbag & steering wheel. The Haynes manual is good for A6 C4, but I'll outline the basics here.

If your steering wheel is adjustable pull it all the way out and low as possible. There are two T30 torx bolts accessible via a hole in the rear of the steering wheel. It can be quite hard to locate the torx bit in the Torx bolt head, and they are often ridiculously tight so make sure you are using a good quality torx driver.



I use this Snap-on torx set which works well but on occasion I've had to disassemble the set and use the T30 bit in some mole grips because the bolts were just so tight!!



Once undone the connector in the back of the airbag can be unplugged, and it stored in a safe place. Note they always say disconnect the battery before working on the airbag system or anything for that matter, I've worked on a few now without disconnecting and I'm still here, but your mileage maybe different, so note you've been warned.. if you are beheaded by your airbag, please don't haunt me!!.

Two screws underneath the column cowl undo to remove the top section, (Philips), once off there are two connectors to unplug one on the right,(horn), and one in a grey foam pouch, (airbag).

24mm socket removes steering wheel, set it to straight ahead position and mark position exactly before removing.

Three screws now visible with wheel removed and another on the bottom of the cowl at the rear removes the lower cowl, but first you need to prize out the spring clip of the column in / out adjuster on the right. An allen key, (2mm or 5/64 works as well), removes the grub screw underneath the left hand column up / down adjuster.



Once off the stalks can be removed there is a allen bolt clamp at the top then it will come off after unplugging the indicator wiper and on fuel comp cars trip computer switch plugs.



Two Philips screws under instrument binnacle lower trim to removes it to uncover three screws in lower instrument binnacle also philips. Once undone the instruments can be removed. It's is not necessary to disconnect them but if you do all you will lose is current stored mpg average and other trip data on fuel comp cars, and clock will stop.. Instruments do not contain immobileser function so do not require recoding if disconnected. It's a good time to replace the 11 instrument illumination bulbs, (orange base). They are removed easily with a deep 1/4 drive 6mm socket and are about £1 each from audi, (don't miss the one underneath the outside temp unit yellow plug if optioned)


Fitting Cruise Loom

With instruments out you can now run the cruise loom through the steering column left side in to the dash, (I'll detail this below as if fitting one of my own looms).

You'll now need to remove the glove box. It is much easier to just remove the bottom part and is all you need to work with. It is held on by four arms and once the four spring clips are removed the arms can be pulled from their pins and the lid removed. Use a screwdriver to prize up the four spring clips with the glove box open, and then remove the four hinge arms from their pins. A little fiddly, but easier than unbolting it all.



Run loom through column housing ECU pins end first, (note the pins are sheathed together with a heat shrink tube to prevent them getting caught and damaged, and you’ll need to remove this sheath later when in place.)

Find a way through to the left above the glove box towards the back...

Pull the loom through and route it towards the back right of the foot well. Now top right corner of the passenger foot well you will need to cut the carpet backing assuming it’s not been done before. (if someone has been in the ECU box before this will most likely have been done.)



Be very careful because major wiring loom is directly behind the carpet in this corner. You will also need to remove the left hand kick panel one screw behind a cover grommet and the front part of the sill trim to release it.



Once done the carpet should be able to be pulled away and down exposing a black plastic cover, three gold screws and the two parts of the cover remove to expose the ECU and fuse board above. Four screws release the ECU and then release the ECU loom from behind the box so you have enough length to work with it.



Ensure ignition is off and has been for a few minutes, and then unplug the ECU. Three screws and the rubber sealing gasket, gets the ECU plug connector cover off slide it up the ECU loom so you can see the wires.



Make sure you now run the new loom through this ECU plug housing before you do anything else, keeping the red wire looping back out. Once done remove the ECU pin heat shrink sheath as mentioned previously very carefully with a knife, and find the pin locations for corresponding wire colours refer to “My Loom” details below. Insert in hole checking correct correlation with current pins. Take your time with this double check you have the correct hole. I use the 2mm (or 5/64) Allen key that was required to remove the left hand steering column adjuster to locate the correct hole and push it through so I can see exactly which it is in the forest of wires at the rear.



Be 100% sure before pushing a pin home until it clicks, because you’ll not get it out again easily without damaging it.




Once all pins are fitted and checked reassemble the ECU plug not forgetting the rubber gasket and route the ECU & new loom neatly behind the box as before.

The Red wire from the new loom now needs to be joined to the Green & Black wire (using enclosed scotch lock). It’s a black fuse holder in fuse rail above the ECU, fuse is blue 15amp. Red wire can be carefully routed behind ECU



Ensure new loom is now run neatly, plug in cruise stalk to loom and reassemble, everything except the top column cover, (you may need to adjust the new stalk to get indicators to cancel in the correct way).

If you did all this with battery connected as long as you didn't switch the ignition on while airbag was disconnected you should be ok. If you did you'll probably have an airbag light on, (airbag ignighter open circuit), which can be cleared with vag com.

Enable cruise in ECU with Vag Com, (see included details below)

Road test car drive above 40mph in 5th or 6th Switch cruise to ON and press “SET”. Car should now maintain this speed unless you push the switch towards OFF, depress clutch or brake pedals, or squeeze switch to “RES” position where it will speed up or return to previous setting after slowing down. A free running M-way and cruise set at 60mph should see about 65mpg assuming your car is in a good state of tune, (figures assume an Audi A6 AAT / AEL 2wd Saloon / Avant with 6 speed manual box)


Enabling Cruise Option with Vag COM

To enable Cruise Control in ECU:
• Ignition on, engine off.
• Engine control module 01
• Login
• 11463
• Enter


To Check Cruise Control Is Enabled:-

• Ignition on, engine off.
• Engine control module 01
• Read data function 08
• Read group 06
• "0.0" = Cruise Control Enabled
"255" = Cruise Control Disabled
A batch of numbers will be displayed. The fourth group of numbers on the far right of the display will be either "0.0" or "255".

If you want to disable cruise control for any reason repeat using 16167 for login



My loom

Stalk plug pins / Wire colours / ECU pins

1. Yellow = ECU plug pin 30
2. Blue = ECU plug pin 45
3. Green = ECU plug pin 48
4. White = ECU plug pin 24
5. Red = Ignition supply (+12v 15amp fused)
6. Black = ECU plug pin 24





note's:- I took the +12v supply from a fuse that sits in the ECU box above it in a black rail. 1st fuse is a 15amp and the wires are a Red, and a Black & Green. Take it from the Black & Green side and its fused, this fuse is part of the glow plug system and if it blows makes the glow plug light flash so you'll know if ever it blows..


Original topic discussion here http://www.audifans.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=19754

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Last edited by BladeRunner on Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:16 am; edited 4 times in total 
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jas11n
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 12:35 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks Jon, brilliant coalition of info, good enough for a sticky Wink

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d-9
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:21 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Bit more info for diagnostics, thanks to Jon for the help with mine.

The switches on the brake and clutch pedals are push to make, released when the pedal is depressed. The green/black wire to each switch is +12v, ignition switched. The signal wire on each switch goes to the ECU, if this is broken the ecu will see 0v on that switch and assume the pedal is pressed, thus not engaging cruise control.

The signal wire on the clutch pedal is red/white and goes to pin 28, the red/grey signal wire on the brake switch goes to pin 26. With the ignition on and the pedals not pressed down, there should be 12v on pins 26 and 28.

To check that the cruise switches are working correctly, look at the patterns of bits on the cruise group in VAG-Com:

• Ignition on, engine off.
• Engine control module 01
• Read data function 08
• Read group 06


The first block shows the current speed in km/h, 0.0 if you are stationary.

Second block shows pedal positions:
0 0 0 no pedals pressed.
0 1 1 brake down
1 0 0 clutch down
1 1 1 both down

Third block shows pedals and cruise switches:
000000 - off, no pedals
000011 - on
000111 - Set
001011 - Res
010000 - off, brake pedal down
100000 - off, clutch pedal down

So in the following picture, the cruise switch is set to ON and the brake pedal is pressed:


Last edited by d-9 on Thu Apr 09, 2009 7:27 pm; edited 2 times in total 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:49 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Cheers for the info d-9 Smile

There's so much useful stuff hidden in the depths of Vag Com

One thing I wanted to add about using the cruise

Try to avoid using the Res switch all the time to increase speed if you are after economy, like most cruise controls, while it works nicely, it's simply to violent for economy driving.... Wink

Also if you need to simply increase speed a little just to overtake a truck for instance, you can leave the cruise set at the speed you are travelling at and just press the throttle to get desired speed. Once past the truck if you let off the throttle, The cruise will take over and carry on at previous set speed. (this assumes you've not, pressed brake, clutch or used any cruise switches).

Something I haven't tried yet is knocking it out of gear while it's doing it's thing. I wonder if it is clever enough to notice there is no increase in road speed, and shut off, or it will just sit on the limiter? Someone said their cruise cut out once while towing uphill, thinking maybe if it gets to full throttle and speed is still dropping off it disconnects to avoid breaking something?

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Ghia
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 8:12 pm Reply with quote Back to top

[quote="BladeRunner"]



My loom

Stalk plug pins / Wire colours / ECU pins

1. Yellow = ECU plug pin 30
2. Blue = ECU plug pin 45
3. Green = ECU plug pin 48
4. White = ECU plug pin 24
5. Red = Ignition supply (+12v 15amp fused)
6. Black = ECU plug pin 24





I have a question.. why are 4. and 6. both supposed to go to pin 24? typo or do you need 2 wires going to it?

Cheers

MG
 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 10:09 pm Reply with quote Back to top

already sorted via PM but have put the answer here too for context of topic,

Not a typo, but is just how Audi decided to do it, in checking a real factory fitted version, the wires were joined together in the loom in the pedal box area.

Cruise switch is sourced from the Audi parts bin of that era, probably before the electronically controlled C4 TDi existed, and is used with petrol cruise models that have mechanical bits, so it may need the other feeds in those applications.

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Ghia
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 8:15 am Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks again Bladerunner.
Just to add, my cruise control stalk only had 4 wires so I had to narrow that down further after having discovered that 2 wires went to the same pin 24.
I found that Pin 30 is another 'On' wire and so wired both Pin 30 and Pin 24 to the same wire on my stalk.
If anyone else is using this engine in a different vehicle or with a non-standard CC stalk, this should help Smile

It's great having CC working on the van.

Thanks again.
MG
 
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burny
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:31 pm Reply with quote Back to top

hello,

do you know if this cruise control works also for audi 100 tdi (AAT) type C4 ?

mine is from 1993, and i am really interested Smile
 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:56 pm Reply with quote Back to top

No sorry as far as we know 100 has earlier ECU and cruise is not supported in the software

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burny
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:11 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Sad Sad Sad Sad

I had lot of hope in this improvement Sad Sad

if I look at the reference of ECU, Could you tell me if I have any chance ?? or for you it is 100 %sure that it will not work , and I waste time Razz
 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:20 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I don't know for 100% certain as I've never had a 100, but it's been discussed in the past and the consensus is it's the 100 models. the ecu also runs different voltages for the pump controls so it's not as if you could swap A6 ECU & pump in easily either

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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:25 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Here we discuss it more

http://www.audifans.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=26131

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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:15 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I've acquired a couple of genuine used cruise stalks and can fit factory cruise as a service to any AAT or AEL A6, (not Audi 100's as software is missing from ECU)

I can do this on a visit me in S42 5TT or a visit you, or meet somewhere in-between service. It takes about 2 hours to do.

Service includes supply of cruise stalk, (that has been disassembled and fully "restored" cleaned contacts, lubricated etc), in exchange for standard lights / indicator stalk, making & supply of loom, fitting and enabling with vag com testing & 12 months warranty on parts & labour.

PM for requirements

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richiecan
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 8:14 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hey Bladerunner

How much would it cost for the whole job?

Many thanks

Richard
 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 8:47 am Reply with quote Back to top

£120 all in if you come to me, more depending on distance if I have to come to you or meet half way etc

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Last edited by BladeRunner on Fri Aug 06, 2010 12:11 am; edited 1 time in total 
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d-9
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 9:38 am Reply with quote Back to top

Thats a bargain!
 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 9:53 am Reply with quote Back to top

Well I wont get rich fitting cruise that's for sure Laughing but total cost depends on what I can get the stalks for mostly Wink

I'm always looking for them but only buy if cheap enough, and they are like rocking horse excrement too.. A new genuine stalk from audi trade (TPS) is £99 + vat last time I checked

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Farmer
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 8:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

As a new member I`d like to say hello to everyone.

BleadeRunner, I`ve got an automatic AAT would you be able to fit cruise control in mine. I done little resarch and I`ve find out that one of the wires has to be conected to the gearbox ECU.

Mine is 1995, 115hp AAT, automatic.

Best Regards
W.
 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:26 pm Reply with quote Back to top

welcome Cool

I take it you have an A6 as it won't work on A100 C4 but I wasn't aware it was different on the auto, but it's something I'm yet to do, (cruise on an auto), but yes I'll take it on in an if I can't get it to work then you won't be charged basis.. however my work load is stupid silly at the moment, mainly why I've not been on the forums recently..

anyhow it's £120 fitted give me a call at work on 01246 859778 to discuss in more detail

search the forums for ael and my username to find many deatiled topics to help you avoid the few (mainly neglected mantainace) issues this car suffers with age

rgds jon

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Farmer
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:25 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Thank you BladeRunner.

Yes it`s an 1995 A6 c4 2.5tdi.

I`m slowly trying to rebuild that old girl Wink.
So far I`ve done bits and pices around the engine, suspension (shocks, etc) buches, dampers...
I might say, I`m working my way up.

I`ve looked around a polish a6 forum and found out that the gearbox ECU is above the engine ECU.
One guy fitted c.c. in his A6 c4 with automatic gearbox and form what he is saying there are two wires that have to be pluged it to gbx ECU.
Without this wires pluged in, the last set speed won`t be remembered, i.e. If your set the speed to 70mph then accelerate, after releasing the accelerator pedal it will reset the c.c.
All we need to do Wink is to find out which wires from the stalk have to be pluged in the gbx ECU.
I`ll keep on digding Smile.

Regards
W
 
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:15 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I`ve got a hold of a electrical wiring dirgram by it is in german :/ . I`ll try to work it out.
If any one is interested, can email it.

Regards W.
 
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bobq
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:04 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi, I don't know if anybody can help but I have managed to source a genuine cruise stalk off of a breaking a6, together with the plug and part of loom but because of the location of the car, I couldn't get the whole wire out!
I have also acquired the trailer wire as recommended but I have been speaking to my local Audi dealer trying to get the pins for the ecu, who are unable to locate the part number for them.
Has anybody got the part number for these or has anyone got any spares which i could purchase, it would be a great help,
Many thanks
Cliff
 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:22 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I may have some spare will have a look if not ecu and abs ecu connectors have them so breakers will let you cut the plugs off if they don't need the loom / are going to cube the car

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bobq
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 5:37 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hi Bladerunner, thankyou - that would be great. to be honest, if the breakers was closer, I would go back to them to get the plug but 170m round trip seems a bit excessive for a couple of pins!! (especially after getting a caught by a yellow box last time - Grrr)
When I was there, I had access to the ecu, but didn't cut off the plug because i thought they would be able to be purchased from Audi.
Thanks again for the reply and all the rest of your assistance on this site.
 
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bobq
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:05 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi,
I did manage to locate a second hand plug, not the cheapest part for what it was but a lot cheaper than £50+ from Main dealer. After inspecting the plug, i had to cut the pins free as I couldn't see anyway of getting them out without damaging the securing clips

For reference, I did locate another guide on this site which was also invaluable when finding the pin holes needed, this is

http://www.audifans.net/ftopict-19754.html

Worked a treat after a clean of the set switch. Initially I could only set the cruise by holding on the resume for a couple of seconds. It now works perfectly. Funny thing was, when going through VAGcom, It was already set as operational even though it has never had CC!

So thanks to all involved with the information

Cliff
 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:10 am Reply with quote Back to top

Happy you got it working ok but everything you need to know is all in this thread if you read through it, including pin locations, images and also mention of the dificulty of getting the pins out the ECU plug if you get them in the wrong holes. The topic you linked to is the original "learning topic" (that is linked to at the end of the guide above), but if something is unclear please let me know exactly what and i'll edit the guide above Cool

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Blackmag
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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 12:46 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hi BladeRunner,

I have a question about the part numbers of the ECU pins used, because I can't explain the VW official dealer in Bulgaria what I need.

If you can provide it that would be pretty cool!

Thanks a lot and greetings for the great article!
 
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BladeRunner
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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 1:28 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Not sure what the p/n is as I've never needed new ones myself all mine have been cut from an A6 loom, my etka doesn't specify the pins.. I do have some spare here though so could send you 4 for £10.00 posted.. PM me for details..

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darren
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Joined: Mar 25, 2013
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 11:12 pm Reply with quote Back to top

ive recently bought a 2.5tdi and was quite happy when i discoverd its fitted with cruise control
 
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Msb12i
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Joined: Apr 26, 2013
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:16 am Reply with quote Back to top

darren wrote:
ive recently bought a 2.5tdi and was quite happy when i discoverd its fitted with cruise control



I recently bought a 1.9tdi and was quite unhappy when I saw it's not fitted with CC.

Also sucks the pictures don't work in this guide. But that's not gonna stop me from fitting it though...
 
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