aat fuel pump from 100 tdi on a6 ael

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 2:52 pm

hi

think my fuel pump is making my problems
no getting pressure and sucking air
can fuel pump from aat audi 100tdi go on a6 ael?
are dose pumps coded to ecu ?
numbers on pump are same part from last few digits
conections are same, all look same?

volvo pumps are diffrent to ael, diffrent conections, lot more volvo pumps than audi ones

thank you

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:00 pm

Are you sure AAT was the engine code for the 100?
IIRC the 100 used a lower voltage supply to the pump than AAT/AEL Audi A6 fitments.
Have you done the usual checks for air leaks, spill pipes and thermostat on the fuel filter?

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:03 pm

How do you know you're not getting pressure?
Easiest way to help prime the pump is to use a hand primer, such as the type fitted to Peugeot 1.9 diesels.
Are you sure your timing is deadly accurate, as these engines are fussy to get started.

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:45 pm

used hand primer
ran pump from can of fuel with inlet to pump and pump return back in to same can, on idle will rev up to 4,5k rpm then stop and stutter, hold there then drop revs,grey smoke ,
when driving in 1,2,3 it will drive some how ,4,5,6 its droping power badly
there is no way to put you foot down up hill, it just dies, like blocked fillter

fillter is new, checked from tank to fillter all ok, inside tank all ok
other day drove from cold few streets up then it died,

its not running any better from can of fuel, with no fillter so no restriction

pump is not leaking any fuel, tdi pumps normaly do when they go
but it looks like pump it self is sucking air
where from ?front pump t shaft seal? seen it on idi v37 pumps

changed copper washers on banjo bolt in pump in feed,still same

looking at pump today, seen 2 yellow marks?like scrap yards do,so it could all ready been changed?
done 3k miles in 3 months, now its started
pump number on mine pump

046 130 108 G on pump i seen for sale
046 130 108 A
he is saying its from 100 2,5 tdi 115bhp 1994

conections are same on both pumps , 7 pin round conection

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:52 pm

just to add
car ran perfect for 3k miles, spot on

then i went on long travel , and drove it hard 130mhp (private road)
i drove perfect, i was having a race with merc 320cdi

after that few days later it started too loose power, only noticed it going up hill, just like fuel starvation, at first i was thinking fuel fillter, change it still same, in my other post you can see i checked intercooler pipes, map sensor pipes, boost is good , 16psi getting with no problems,

dont realy want to spend 500 to refurb fuel pump, not worth it

same as it a good car

Newbie Joined: Sep 04, 2014 Posts: 1

when driving in 1,2,3 it will drive some how ,4,5,6 its droping power badly
there is no way to put you foot down up hill, it just dies, like blocked fillter

Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:50 pm

Does sound like a pump problem. Possibly with the low pressure vane pump section.

Potentially fixable
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/renaultip.htm
(for the brave and dextrous!)

If swapping the whole pump then the Volvo 850/V70 TDI should be the same as the AEL one and usually easier to find. Should be ok to find in Manchester I would think? Here in Somerset/Dorset bush I know of 1 x Volvo and 1 x A6 AAT available in scrapyard within 10 miles.

Nick

Newbie Joined: Nov 08, 2013 Posts: 1

Hi there.
I have to share my experience with You guys.

I have an A6 AAT ARX, and the feeling was somehow the same like You are experiencing.
At cold, the engine runs perfect but at one point lose power and rpm ...
After almost 1 year of trying different parts I did found out the real problem. The IDIOT that changed my belts and tensioner (regulary 120k chg) din NOT change the waterpump or he did it but installed a cheap pump with plastic propeller.
The propeller cracked at one point and turned the water in the system only from time to time. When it was necessary to cooldown the water(going uphill), the pump did not move the water in the system, the visco coupling did not clutch, so, only when hot water got to the front radiator the extra fan (clima) was starting. The ECU DOES NOT REGISTER THIS ERROR but he is getting/setting to a SAFE mode. Then the fuel is cut and rpm trimmed to something arround 2500 rpm. I beleive this is what You feel.
The needle in the dash does not show a higher temp, only if You drive a lot and the water pump does not turn too much. It happens that everything looks ok but suddenly the red sign on the small dash computer appears ! I beleive the ECU does some monitoring of all the temperature sensors and judge if everything is plausible or not, then sets the SAFE mode.
Obviously the pump has to be changed!
I hope the info helps

Best regards, Radu