Left wheel knocking and new aerial replacement?

Newbie Joined: Jan 26, 2015 Posts: 11

Hi all, I have just purchased an Audi cab 2000 plate. The left wheel knocks when turning hard right, any ideas? Cv boot? Also can anyone point me in the right direction for a Haynes manual?

Also I have been looking to replace the power aerial, does anyone know if this is a difficult job?

I'm no mechanic but would appreciate any advice. Thanks.

Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:03 pm

First of all, pictures please Very Happy

Sounds like you have got a dodgy cv joint but does it only do it on right hand lock? if its the cv joint i would think it should do it on left lock as well. Have you got after market wheels? maybe the offset is wrong and its hitting the strut?

Bandwidth Buster Joined: Jun 14, 2008 Posts: 742

Hi, If you're looking for an original audi part to replace the aerial, they are hard to get hold of and feckin expensive, I tried and the only one in the UK was £98.00 plus vat. but you could fit an after market aerial for a lot less!

Newbie Joined: Jan 26, 2015 Posts: 11

Thanks for the replies chaps. I have spoken to AVS in Leatherhead and they reckon it is a cv boot that is the issue (shuan5 you were right, it does it on both locks).
Thanks ukwide, £98.00 is crazy, I'll go aftermarket. The power bit is fine it's just aerial itself, it only goes half up or down. Do you know if they are tricky to change?

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 5:55 pm

its not to bad a job to replace it but i would remove it and try cleaning the mast or turn on the radio, give it a hand to go up and then wipe the mast and spray WD40 on it when its going down. do that a few times and it might go all the way up and down.

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 8:15 pm

A Beru A350 is the closest aftermarket replacement that I know of which comes anywhere near the Audi OEM one. It does sit pretty high when extended though - around 95cm if I remember correctly. Can be found on fleabay for around £40ish, I got mine from GSF car parts for £45 delivered.
Best thing about it is that it is a straight swap and easy job, although I did have to buy a coax to DIN ISO convertor/connector for the signal line.
That said, after fitting I didn't like it and decided to go for a much shorter static jobbo - 9 quid from halfords.
As for the clicking, defo the CV joints. These cars eat through front suspension parts due to the position/weight of the engine, especially the drop link bars.

GSF Beru A350 electric aerial: http://www.gsfcarparts.com/892vg0140
Fleabay listing for coax to DIN connector: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aerial-Coax-Adapter-Lead-DIN-41585-M10-AUKAB-435-17-/360339065371

Newbie Joined: Jan 26, 2015 Posts: 11

I have tried loosening with GT85 but no joy, I think the aerial is marginally bent, thanks for the info on the aftermarket replacement, will look into it. The car has just done 80k, so I imagine suspension parts could start to groan now.
On another note.... I get quite a lot of water dripping into the boot after washing the car, any idea how this gets into the boot lid?
Really love the car already but starting to realise it's going to be a labour of love! Especially as it is my wife' and kids main run about (until I get home of course).

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 9:00 pm

Boot lid leaks are common on these (even more so the coupe version).
Usual suspect areas are the rubber seals in the boot themselves and/or the seals outside around the tail light section.
Neoprene rubber sealing gaskets can be found in the usual places online - this stuff is great for resealing light units, but takes patience and a bit of a light hand to fit.
In this sticky thread you can find all you need to know about removing and resealing the rear tail light section: http://audifans.net/ftopict-31291.html
Excellent tutorial from daver with pics to boot (excuse the pun!) lol

The aerial mast can also be replaced: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A6-A8-80-90-100-Quattro-Cabriolet-Aerial-Antenna-Mast-/360944790912
Just remove the unit from the car and undo the external screws, it can get messy once open due to the internal grease on the cogs.
Just be sure to fit it back together exactly as it came apart.
Not a hard job, but a bit fiddly (and messy!)

Newbie Joined: Jan 26, 2015 Posts: 11

Thanks for the replies. Do you know which is the best Haynes manual to use?
I'll try to get a couple of photos up soon for those who are interested. I've just noticed it doesn't have the rude looking splitter/spoiler on the front like some I've seen, it also has rounded edged fogs on the front, not the more square I've noticed on earlier models, not sure what the difference is...

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 9:45 pm

Unfortunately there are no Haynes manuals that are specific to the cabriolet but if I remember correctly the Audi 80, 90 & Coupe manual have very similar techniques detailed that would be used in maintaining the B4 cab.

Newbie Joined: Jan 26, 2015 Posts: 11

A pic guys. Mechanic thought that front left noise was too intermittent and mild to bother with now however he did say that the cambelt needs doing as it was done 17k and 5 yrs ago. £538 all in, sounds about right I guess, need to book it in... Really need to find out how to stop water getting inside the boot lid itself!.

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:01 pm

A timing belt fitted 17k and only 5 years ago? It's barely been run in!!
It has at least another 60k before another change is really necessary so I'm afraid your mechanic is simply playing the salesman act..
I've personally never bought the "80k or 10 years - whatever comes first malarkey", a visual inspection should be more than enough to tell if a belt is on it's way out, but I generally stick to the mileage rule of about 80k.
And £538 is way too pricey for a change, most quotes I've heard for these engines are around the £400 - 450 mark (and much less if it is done for "mates rates").
The full timing kit itself is around £70, and you will be better off doing the water pump/thermostat change while the front of the engine is exposed - add about another £40 for those. Job should only take 3-4 hours max for someone who knows what they are doing and has all the right kit to get the job done..most important is the cam locks to hold them in TDC while the belt is replaced.
Here is a link to probably the best tutorial for an ABC engine cambelt change I have found to date:
http://tipetu.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/audi-2628-c4-a6-100-80-a4-cam-belt-job.html
Even if you don't want to attempt it yourself, it tells you what is involved, with high quality pictures.

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:14 pm

Yes the car might not have done the miles but it is 5 years old so should be replaced.
Think about it, the engine obviously gets left for possibly long periods, the belt will be formed to its rest shape and then started which will stress it.
Audi engines are interference engines so its not worth the risk of not changing the belt.
Price does seem a bit steep but it depends on whats getting replaced and what make of parts are being used (genuine or not?)

And nice looking car you have

Camped on the site Joined: May 10, 2013 Posts: 228

CV joints are one on each side.

So if it's clacking/clunking on hard lock it's likely a CV joint on that side I believe. Usually only one is dead so you only replace that side, in some cases it's both (like mine).

Newbie Joined: Jan 26, 2015 Posts: 11

Hi guys, got a price on the cambelt from a local garage at £400 all in, that seems far more reasonable, I'm going to get it done so I don't have to live with worry! Thanks for the tips on the cv joint/s, will address that when I hear a permanent noise.
Today poured water around the boot avoiding the third brake light, no water got in the boot lid ,pretty sure that's how the water is getting in, the lens is warped so I need to order a new one (£45 on eBay....)

Newbie Joined: Jan 26, 2015 Posts: 11

The culprit. Do I replace just the lens or the whole unit (it works).

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 7:46 pm

just looking at the great pics here, and am asking did this person fit the belt without taking the front of the car off and raidator, as i have been told this must be done to gain access

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:10 am

just looking at the great pics here, and am asking did this person fit the belt without taking the front of the car off and raidator, as i have been told this must be done to gain access

Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 6:50 pm

Just to let you know got my timming belt, thermostat and water pump replaced at Motor technolachy in Dundee for £440 last week, they done a great job also with a years warranty on parts, as for Dundee Audi for the same job they was wanting £800