temp guage reading slightly hot on ABK engine?

Posted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 5:19 pm

In need of some advice here, guys and gals, so I hope someone can offer some pearls of wisdom. The temp guage on my 2.0E ABK saloon is consistently reading high, around the 100 degrees mark. In traffic it moves a little further up, then the fans kick in. My local audi guy ran the engine for an hour and said that it definitely wasn't overheating. He reckoned the sensor might be duff.

I'm about to go buy a sensor - but I wanted to check something. Isn't the fan operation controlled by a separate sensor? So if the sensor for the temp guage was faulty, then the fans wouldn't kick in at all, becuase the coolant would still be at normal temperature.

The engine doesn't seem very much hotter than normal - once I've stopped the car the bonnet seems normal. etc.

I'm also having a very slight hesitation, more pronounced at lower speeds and revs, so slight I can barely feel it but annoying, nonetheless. i've changed the lambda probe, and the distributer cap. Rotor arm seems to be glued on, so I've just cleaned it a bit and left it in place.

this isn't a crucial problem but it's really irritating Sad

hope someone can help.

Posted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:05 pm

when the engine is up to temperature, are all the hoses warm? If one is cool, it could indicate a blockage (debris, air) which could 1: make the engine run warmer, and 2: give false readings as the coolant may not be circulating fully

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

The fans start when the sensor on the radiator reaches the cutoff point. Not sure what it is on the ABK but it's normally 100-105 degrees.

The gauge doesn't need to be working and the fan will still operate.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it and as far as I can tell, there's nothing wrong.

Audi Nut Joined: Oct 16, 2006 Posts: 75

Temperature and Fuel guages on these are renowned for giving inaccurate readings.....like the above said, if the fan is coming on all seems fine.

Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:21 am

having never owned a petrol version before, how normal is it for the fan to come on anyway? On the diesel I think it has maybe come on twice in six years... the first time was a shock, I presumed it didn't work

Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:49 am

thanks for all the answers, as always I'm overwhelmed by this community - in your debt, people.

The hoses are all warm when the engine is warmed up, so I reckon that the coolant is circulating round the engine. I've tried feeling the radiator to see if the core might be blocked, but it all seems to be at the same temperature - just hot enough to touch.

I think it's just that the gauge sat for so long just on the 90 mark, and rarely moved. About three weeks ago my wife (it's her car) noticed the needle rising further than normal and that's where it all started - although it turned out a blessing, because in investigating the overheating I discovered that the timing belt tensioner had seized and the belt was looser than a very loose thing. Since had a new one fitted, but the temperature anomaly is still there. I guess it might just be a faulty sensor or gauge - i am always wary of driving a car when there might be an overheating problem.

I don't actually know how normal it is for the fan to come on... I could understand it kicking in more often in the summer... mind you, it has been a warm winter... I drove for three miles yesterday, stopped and let the car run, and it took about five minutes at idle for the fans to come on. I was standing at the open bonnet when it happened, and I can tell you, it gives you a shock. Definitely reinforces the "no loose garments" rule. Anyone any idea if this is normal?

Audi Nut Joined: Oct 16, 2006 Posts: 75

Mines a 1994 2.0 8 valve....it warms up quickly and the fans are on a lot of the time but it never overheats.

I queried this when I first got it and was told that it's perfectly normal.

Incidentally, my temp guage was always very close to 90 degrees....I had a new alternator drivebelt and water pump drive belt fitted on Thursday last week and I'm sure the guage was a bit higher on the way home.

I've not really used it since but will let you know what it says next time I am out.

Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:48 am

'no loose garments' Laughing

exactly!! Mine had been running with the bonnet open for ages for some reason, and the fans kicked in while I was sat on the slam panel - scared the bejeesus out of me! Two fans with the combined force of a force ten... Shocked

Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:47 pm

2.0E ABK here..

My fans come on just after 90.. If you have been driving about then leave the engine running it takes about 5 mins (if that) at a guess before the fans come on. I mean a good drive about aswell so its fully warmed up.

To come out of the "cold" zone when driving takes roughly 2miles. To get up to about 90 where it usually sits when warm i'd say maybe 4-5miles.

Might be worth checking antifreeze concentration. Should be free at a garage.

Indeed the fans do have their own sensor. It's down near the bottom of the radiator on the left hand side as you look in the engine bay. If you get a non audi replacement its about £8..

The other sensor is one of those which sit at the top of the pipes just near the top of the engine. Not sure which one. From memory one is for the interior temp gauage the other is for the ecu.? If you do a search im sure it tells you more somewhere on here.

The rotor arm isnt glued down, It's just tight. I was mistaken by that too.
The hesitation is usually caused by incorrect timing, mucky injectors, mucky breather pipes or mucky intake bits and bobs. You could try marking the distributor up then advancing it very slightly, this has worked wonders for mine until i get it timed properly next month. Listen to it when accelerating hard or up hills and listen for tinkling (pinking) if it does that it's too far advanced an you'll have to knock it back a bit. If you've never done timing before its only a case of a few millimeters, thats why its best to mark it up first.

Hope something helps in there.. Very Happy

Audi Nut Joined: Oct 16, 2006 Posts: 75

O.K, been on a long trip down the M4 and back....my guage sat between 90 & 100 - usually just below the 100 mark all the way there and back.

Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 8:28 pm

Mine seems to be settling down now, somewhere between 90 and 100, too, so maybe I'm worrying about nothing. I traced the lack of power to the timing, it was 5 degrees retarded instead of 3 BTDC, once that was sorted the engine ran like a dream. The timing belt tensioner seized about a month ago and I was lucky enough to catch it before any serious damage was done. I reckon this must be what moved the timing back so far. The garage who replaced the belt and tensioner didn't check the timing afterwards - but they did spend time with me sorting it out when I went back, and even showed me how to use the timing light properly, etc. so I'm not complaining...

I think I'll take some of the advice here and live with the temperature thing - it don't seem to be broke, so I ain't going to fix it!

Thanks again everyone for all your help.

Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 10:22 pm

Hmmmmmmmm. I always thought 2.0ABK was

6 degrees +/- 1 degree BTDC @ 2000...2500rpm <---Digifant

Officialy anyway.. BUT im sure theres a can of worms here.
Your really only setting a rough guide for the hall sendor and sensors to pick up on and adjust. But digifant was never that accurate, hence lots of problems on 2.0's Sad

Boo

Have fun reading.... Very Happy

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Timing

Setting the timing on a Digifant engine is slightly different than other systems. Whereas most cars have the timing set with the engine at idle, Digifant timing is accomplished with the engine turning between 2000 and 2500 rpm. This fools a lot of professional mechanics and hobbyists alike.

Before you set the timing, disconnect the blue coolant temperature sensor in the cylinder head coolant neck. Rev the engine through 2500 rpm four times to clear the control unit's memory. Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt. Watch out for the radiator fan which can come on at any time during this procedure.

Set the timing to 6 degrees +/- 1 degree before top dead center at approximately 2250 rpm. Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt, and rev the engine through 3000 rpm three times.

Now you should check and reset your idle speed if necessary. The correct idle with the coolant temperature sensor disconnected is 900 to 1000 rpm. With the sensor connected normal idle should drop to 800 +/- 50 rpm.

Although some cars respond to advanced timing, Digifant does not and needs to be timed to the factory setting for peak performance and to avoid ping. Even with the correct timing, Digifant cars run best on 92 octane fuel or better and may still ping on hot days due to hot spots in the cylinder head.

Temporary solutions to hot weather ping include increasing the amount of water in your antifreeze mix, adding a surfactant (wetting agent) to the coolant such as Red Line's Water Wetter, installing a lower temperature thermostat.

-----------------------------------
Service Adjustment Mode

Before attempting to set the ignition timing or base idle speed the ECU must be put into service adjustment mode. This is done by making sure the engine is thoroughly warm and then disconnecting the multi-plug from the blue coolant temperature sensor while the engine is running.

If the engine stalls at any point while making adjustments to the timing and base idle speed the multi-plug must be refitted to the coolant temperature sensor before re-starting the engine. Failure to do this will cause the ECU to enter 'limp home' mode. Adjustments will then not be possible until you have cleared the faults from the ECU memory.

Ignition Timing

The procedure in the Haynes manual will give a rough timing setting. To set the timing properly the following procedure is needed. Digifant has an unusual procedure for setting the timing so please follow the instructions carefully.

With the ECU in service adjustment mode blip the throttle so that the engine revs past 2500 rpm. Do this four times.

Increase the engine speed from idle to between 2000 and 2500 rpm and check the timing. This should be 6° +/-1°. If adjustment is needed slacken the distributor fixing bolts and turn the distributor until you have the correct timing.

Allow the engine to return to idle speed and re-connect the multi-plug to the blue coolant temperature sensor. Blip the throttle three times, making sure the engine speed rises over 3000 rpm each time.

Check the ignition timing now advances with increased revs by slowly increasing the engine speed while watching the timing marks. Without an expensive timing light you will not be able to accurately measure the advance, but it should be around 40° at 2800 rpm.

Shocked

But if your not pinking and power seems ok then leave alone. The best thing for the buggers is a re-map, but that costs lots of saved up pennies.

Inexperienced Joined: Nov 06, 2014 Posts: 23

Sorry to revive an old thread but my ABK is reporting a running temp of 110, fans kick in at 120. This is after a new grey 3 pin sensor that fits up by the engine. Old sensor had temps at 80 fans on at 90. I can't read the part number on the old one to compare to the new, would anyone be so kind so as to confirm the correct part number?

Cheers. Much in debt to you helpful guys and girls Smile

Needs to get out more Joined: Feb 07, 2011 Posts: 114

053-919-501A 3 pin grey temperature sender for ABK

Inexperienced Joined: Nov 06, 2014 Posts: 23

Cheers