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HF1600ie
Needs to get out more



Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:18 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi guys,
Lately, iīve been loosing some drops of oil near the crankshaft pulley (front corner of oil sump). I am still not sure where it comes from, but :
- It doesnīt drop from the oil cyclone breather
- It doesnīt come from the sump (although the sump seal is not 100% perfect).
- It doesnīt fall if the car is stopped (car can be stopped for 4 weeks and not a single leak whatsoever falls).
- It starts to fall (fresh engine oil) after about 40km (30 miles). Itīs few drops here and there, but very visible).

I can see the oil falling from the alluminium part (engine mount) very near the sump and the crankshaft.

What can it be? Crankshaft seal? Oil pump? Rolling Eyes

Otherwise, all engine is very clean.

Please help !
 
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NickJones
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Joined: Oct 21, 2004
Posts: 219
Location: Somerset UK

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:46 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Dunno where it comes from but mine does it too. Seems to be from somewhere on the oil pump housing. Makes a bit of a mess on the undertray but not enough to make me serious about finding it.

Nick
 
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SkyRocketeer
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Joined: Feb 14, 2011
Posts: 342
Location: Newport S-Wales

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 9:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Front cam seals can dribble a bit. Mines leaking from the turbo return pipe..
 
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HF1600ie
Needs to get out more



Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 11:51 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I need to look further , probably with a mirror to access other areas.

I HOPE itīs the cam compartiment seal. Would be good news, as itīs easy to repair.

My turbo oil pipes (feed and waste) are clean.

I dont know where the oil pump or the oil radiator are. Where are they ?

Need to look better as soon as I get the chance. Itīs always 2 or 3 drops on the floor everytime i go for a ride. thatīs messy.

Cool
 
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bernie
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Joined: Feb 05, 2008
Posts: 34
Location: manchester

PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:43 am Reply with quote Back to top

hi had same problem with my ael turned out to be oil pump gasket on front of engine replaced oil pump and gasket and new sump [scabby] while i was at it lol all cured now. bernie.
 
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HF1600ie
Needs to get out more



Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 11:56 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi Bernie,
My cam seal looks fine. I have cleaned it all (engine and seal) and used a little bit of silicone all along. Looks sealing on all sides (front, back, injection pump side and timing belt side).

Once iīve tried to replace the sump seal. I took all bolts, except 1 !!!! Impossible to do without removing (i donīt know the name of it), but itīs a large (fat) black metal part that connects from left suspension to right suspension.

My oil sump gasket is very good in all sides, except near the place where I "SEE" the leak. However, the leak is bigger than what the gasket could be leaking from that zone. So, itīs not the sump gasket. The sump gasket will eventually swept a little after a few hundreds or maybe after 1000km. But wonīt leak.

How did you take the oil pump out ? Is the oil pump, the clear allumimium part (size of a small dish) on the left oft he crankshaft ? Do you need to remove all the front of the car ? Hope not ! Rolling Eyes Confused
 
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bernie
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Joined: Feb 05, 2008
Posts: 34
Location: manchester

PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:49 pm Reply with quote Back to top

yes all the front had to come off the oil pump bolts to the front of engine the bottom pulley
needs to come off too.have you changed the cam belt recently sometimes when you do cam belt it can disturb the oil pump and then the gasket to the block leaks, sump needed to come off too on mine quattro to get to scavenge pipe. cheers bernie
 
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HF1600ie
Needs to get out more



Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 10:44 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I thought so about the oil pump....
Yes, I t changed the belts about 15K miles ago. This was 3 years ago Rolling Eyes

But what about the sump ? Did you take it out directly ? In my FWD I really canīt do it without removing the "large black metal part" that connected left to right suspension. It simply blocks any chance of access without taking that part away from the path first.
 
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bernie
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Joined: Feb 05, 2008
Posts: 34
Location: manchester

PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 8:02 pm Reply with quote Back to top

hi i think what you are referring to is the subframe is held in place with 4 bolts take the bolts out and subframe drops enough for sump to come out, there is also an aluminium casting at the back of sump near gearbox needs to come off no big deal though, you will have to put the car on axle stands unless you have access to wheel free ramp. cheers bernie.
 
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HF1600ie
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Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:44 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi.
Yes ! The subframe.... the name just escaped me. So, what 4 bolts should I take off (if I eventually needed to take the sump out) ?
Apart from that, Iīve only taken out the support for the engine cover (itīs attached by 2 bolts to the engine and has 3 holes to attach to the engine cover).

With this, it was hard to reach a few of them, but THAT LAST ONE bolt, was really impossible ! I wasnīt even able to seen him Laughing

So, I really hope itīs not the oil pump....I have no idea how to remove the fron of the car to access it ! Giving it to a mechanic will be a bit expensive Confused


bernie wrote:
hi i think what you are referring to is the subframe is held in place with 4 bolts take the bolts out and subframe drops enough for sump to come out, there is also an aluminium casting at the back of sump near gearbox needs to come off no big deal though, you will have to put the car on axle stands unless you have access to wheel free ramp. cheers bernie.
 
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bernie
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Joined: Feb 05, 2008
Posts: 34
Location: manchester

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 12:25 pm Reply with quote Back to top

hi the 4 big bolts that hold the subframe to the body then the subframe drops down enough to get the sump out. cheers bernie.
 
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seafarer
Newbie
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Joined: Sep 09, 2010
Posts: 5
Location: CONSTANTA / ROMANIA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:46 pm Reply with quote Back to top

My AEL has a quite visible oil leak coming from the oil cooler area. I think the 2 o-rings are damaged. Due to movement, oil spreads a lot and thi leak was a bit difficult to trace. It's worth checking anyway.
On the other hand, can anyone explain please what do I have to do to replace that membrane of the pressure relief valve located inside the camshaft cover ? I removed those 2 screws but not much else, that lid is well stuck and was afraid not to break it. Any help is well appreciated !
 
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SkyRocketeer
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Joined: Feb 14, 2011
Posts: 342
Location: Newport S-Wales

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 8:00 am Reply with quote Back to top

If the oil cooler is like the coolant/oil intercoolers used on the rest of the VAG lineup, then there's no lower o-ring, it uses the seal on the oil filter itself. There's a largish flat nut under the cooler body that tightens it against the filter housing - check that, could be that repeated unfastings of the filter has slackened it slightly.

seafarer wrote:

On the other hand, can anyone explain please what do I have to do to replace that membrane of the pressure relief valve located inside the camshaft cover ? I removed those 2 screws but not much else, that lid is well stuck and was afraid not to break it. Any help is well appreciated !


It's probably gummed up. Gently lever it off with a screwdriver- there's places on the casting that look like their for this purpose. The casting looks brittle, so lever it up straight, if that makes sense.

You can get a complete refurbishment kit from Audi from this, comprises of an o-ring, diaphragm (mine was torn) a spring and some other bits of plastic - pay attention to how it comes apart (the spring isn't that strong) and make sure to re-assemble it that way.
 
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HF1600ie
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Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 12:46 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hi Bernie,
Can i just release the "enough" of this 4 bolts to slacken the subrame a bit, or do I need it to come down ?

Which are the bolts ? these?
http://forums.quattroworld.com/a6100/threads/2921.phtml

Anyway, can this be done with car on the floor, or I must lift it with an hydraulic ? I was thinking to let the car parked and just let the suframe come down enough to access the remaining bolts.

The car can "hold itself" with the subframe unbolted ?

bernie wrote:
hi the 4 big bolts that hold the subframe to the body then the subframe drops down enough to get the sump out. cheers bernie.
Rolling Eyes
 
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NickJones
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Joined: Oct 21, 2004
Posts: 219
Location: Somerset UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 1:10 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Just had to tighten the oil cooler onto the block a bit myself to stop a leak from behind it. Remove oil filter and tighten the 27mm nut under it. Don't go mad - mine was quite loose so just nipped it up a bit.

Not sure how much you need to gain but slackening the front subframe mounting bolts only will gain you about 20 - 25mm without even completely moving the bolts. Did this myself a couple of weeks back to access the ARB bolts. You could also slacken the rear ones a bit to gain a bit more. Note that the gearboxmounts are hung from the subframe but the engine is attached to the chassis.

Nick

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Nick Jones
Somerset UK
A6 2.5TDI
Triumph Vitesse 
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HF1600ie
Needs to get out more



Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 2:16 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Right,
I was thinking about the engine being attached to the subframe. So, it wouldnīt be a good idea to let it come down, because the engine would also fall afterwards.

But, if the gearbox is attachesd to the subframe, thatīs not good news either. Probably will need to have an hydraulic lifting it up while the frame is down. Will this be enough? Maybe iīll leave it to a mechanic. Not that I coudlnīt do it, but just for safety.

If loosening the subframe a bit would be enough to access these bolts, I think I would do it, but I would need about 4cm to put the key and unbolt those 2 last screws from the oil pan.

Also, I still have the burning oil problem (1l per 4000km). I need to think what to do once the oil pan is out. If I had the time or cash, I would just take pistons out and see how the rings are. But, for that, I would need to take the head off as well.

NickJones wrote:
Just had to tighten the oil cooler onto the block a bit myself to stop a leak from behind it. Remove oil filter and tighten the 27mm nut under it. Don't go mad - mine was quite loose so just nipped it up a bit.

Not sure how much you need to gain but slackening the front subframe mounting bolts only will gain you about 20 - 25mm without even completely moving the bolts. Did this myself a couple of weeks back to access the ARB bolts. You could also slacken the rear ones a bit to gain a bit more. Note that the gearboxmounts are hung from the subframe but the engine is attached to the chassis.

Nick
 
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NickJones
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Joined: Oct 21, 2004
Posts: 219
Location: Somerset UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 11:13 pm Reply with quote Back to top

You can easily support the gearbox and detach the two gearbox mounts. If you then remove all 4 subframe bolts it will drop right down (you might need to also release some wires at the front).

This can be done with the car still on it's wheels though I think trying to move it like this would end badly!

Nick

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Nick Jones
Somerset UK
A6 2.5TDI
Triumph Vitesse 
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HF1600ie
Needs to get out more



Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 9:55 am Reply with quote Back to top

Yes, obviously the car could not move like that !

I will need to have a look at it. and decide if I do it or If I pay for it.

If I give the job to my mechanic, since the sump will be out, Iīll ask him if he could do the ring and valve job. Itīs weird an AAT needs new rings at 220.000km. Probably oil control ring is has caked soot/oil and are stuck.
Turbo is fine. Itīs too cold in first start to create smoke. Iīve swapped for other, no difference. Also smoke is present right after the 1st time it starts. Itīs greyish/blue and is there for sometime, so, it could be valve seals.

Iīm think if I just replace the sump gasket - although oil leak may come from from oil pump seal as well - or If I do everything and that means a lot of money for a car I donīt drive everyday.

And this is a pity, because it drives well, pulls well and is very smooth. Even starts first time Smile
 
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