How I solved my faulty roof nightmare :-)

Inexperienced Joined: Jul 01, 2011 Posts: 49

Hi,

I've been doing some more block measuring tests, step by step, which give me some info but don't understand what the issue is. To recap its a roof that doesn't go anywhere beyond the lid opening a few inches stage, I've redone boot lid looms, checked levels, measured through V53 and checked it's PCB traces. The roof was working well until somebody put in a new plastic rear window.

I was curious if there is something with the 3 microswitches in the roof compartment latches, as the first group / first block / first digit, which stands for 'F200 entriegelt' or 'Compartment cover locked right switch 1' which at startup should be 1, but for me is always 0.

So I thought to test them separately:

Right latch (UK driver side):
- all the way up:
- 01001110 01000100 00000100 1100

- halfway down:
- 01101110 01000100 00000100 1100

- all the way down:
- 10101110 01000100 00000100 1100

Left latch:
- all the way up:
- 10101110 01000100 00000100 1100

- halfway down:
- 10101110 01100100 00000100 1100

- all the way down:
- 10101110 10100100 00000100 1100

Every movement has an effect, looks ok?

I do note however, when I fold down the roof manually, and lift the latches for the compartment lid to sit in, and then pull the central console button 'open', the lid clicks in, and then reads:
---------01111111 00100101 00000100 1100

Then, when I close and open the roof a few times manually until the boot lock opens (stupid as it sounds its the only way) I read
---------10100010 10101010 00000100 1100
shd be:10101010 10101010 00000000 1100 - looks close, apart from the block 1/digit 5 (V53) (block3/digit6 = handbrake so thats correct)

Then I push the central console button to close the roof, which stalls with the lid a few inches open:
---------01101110 01101010 00000100 1100 (group 2: 00000 00111111)

then pull the central console button to close the lid back in (otherwise I can't open the lid, the hydraulics seem to block), up till the lid clicks back in:
---------10101110 10101010 00000100 1100 (group 2: 00000 00000000)

then try the boot, which against my expectation still opens. Then it reads:
---------10100010 10101010 00000100 1100

Then I fold the roof back up / closed manualy:
---------00111111 00100101 00000100 1100 (group 2: 00000 00000000)

Then, I when I press the latches a little (very hard to reach now), it surprisingly gives this:
---------10111111 10100101 00000100 1100 (group 2: 00000 00000000)

Which is closer to what I'm after, could it mean that the latches don't close enough in the automatic system? Or is it irrelevant that block1/digit 1 & 5 are off?

On this for a while now, and although I'm getting more information and trying to keep faith (…) I don't feel I'm getting any closer. Could it be a problem Both in the V53 lock and the compartment latches?

Perhaps good to outline, I bought the car in September, automatic roof was folding perfect, but the plastic rear window needed replacing. Had that done in November, but then didn't use the roof until the sun came out in March or so - to find it didn't work anymore. Went back to the guys who did the rear window, but ofcourse a bit of a nasty situation as they said 'well that's half a year ago and can't be our mistake'. They did have a quick look at it and pointed the cables in the boot lid, but refused to look at it further.
Hence I have a suspicion that it could just be a faulty connection, but have no idea where.

One other question, could it be necessary to reset the Roof ECU, and if so how?

Many thanks again,

Inexperienced Joined: Jul 01, 2011 Posts: 49

By the way, I did another fault code test, which has 2 different faults from the test a week ago.

5 Faults Found:
01089 - Switch for Tensioning Strut Stowed (F204)
25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition
01100 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
27-00 - Please Register/Activate
(Luggage Compartment Switch (Unlked)?)
01112 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
28-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
(01112 Actuator Motor 1 and 2 Power Supply?)
01107 - Convertible Top Locked Indicator Light (K98)
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00271 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

So now I have 01112 and 01107, instead of 01111 and 00258 last week - otherwise it's the same. Altogether very frustrating..
The only things I have come to be sure of after two weeks of fiddling, that the V53 boot lock sometimes gives an error in block 1 / bit 5 and 6 (saying it's both open as well as closed), and that the compartment cover latches sometimes don't close (block 1 / bit 1 and block 2 / bit 1) - this irregularity is very frustrating, and don't really have a clue where to look next.
Any hints / ideas are greatly welcomed..

Still wondering if I need to reset the roof ECU, also as Fast28's fault reading decoding mentions: "Interrogate fault memory " and "Erase fault memory ", should I, and how?

Inexperienced Joined: Jul 01, 2011 Posts: 49

I'm not sure if it's 100% correct, but here my understanding of which Switch connects to which Bit:

[/i]

Inexperienced Joined: Jul 01, 2011 Posts: 49

I already removed and opened the boot lock motor V53 it but wanted to be sure it's the right way. As mentioned on http://www.audicabrio.info/co/printthread.php?tid=18508

I measured a connection between 1 and 2 with the arm pulled out, and a connection between 1 and 4 with the arm pushed in.
3, 5 and 6 are at all times connected.
Is this correct or should I test the actual motor, e.g. put 12v on it on the bench to see if it works? (Not sure how)

Inexperienced Joined: Jul 01, 2011 Posts: 49

As CCV6 mentioned to look for broken cables, I found this loose plug behind the back seat:

and this one in the boot lid:

Having said that, the roof did work when I bought it, and very unlikely someone has been under the back seat. (only chance is during the refitting of the back window)

Also, on each side tucked on the tensioning bow there are two springs with nothing connected - one has a bit of string that doesn't go anywhere - are they crucial in the system, or just to keep the fabric tight?:

Again apologies to keep posting like the royal mail, if you'd prefer a summary let me know.
My main questions are:
-Should I start cutting up the looms under the roof to check for breakages (looks unlikely)?
-Can I reset the roof controller, and can I test if this is broken?
-how can I fully test the boot lock motor v53?
-what does it mean that I have issues with the v53 and the tensioning bows, but not all the time?
-with so many different intermittent issues, should I actually give up, tear the roof off and move somewhere where the sun does shine?

Thanks again

Inexperienced Joined: Jul 01, 2011 Posts: 49

From CCV6's directions, I finally found how to reset the error codes in VAG COM, and now I'm getting 1 error:

1 Fault Found:
01111 - Luggage Comp. Lock Actuator Motor 1
28-10 - Short to B+ - Intermittent

So still pointing to the v53, as Fast28 mentioned initially.
I'm going to try and find a replacement, to see if its that, or the wiring to it. If anyone has a spare one for sale I'd love to hear.

Many thanks

Inexperienced Joined: Jul 01, 2011 Posts: 49

Hi,

I've worked out some more things and think I'm quite certain that the v53 Boot lock motor is actually not the problem.

I've taken off the Boot lock motor, and when I in that loose plug short pins 6 - 1 (as if boot lock motor Open), VAG COM gives me 10110011.
Then, when I short 6 - 2, VAG COM gives me 10111111 (as if boot lock motor Locked).
If I then short nothing, it again gives me 10110011

So that are the same faulty measurements that earlier pointed to a broken Boot lock motor, both indicating that the ECU reads the Boot lock motor being Opened = yes (bit 5) and Closed = yes (bit 6) at the same time.

That confirms that the problem is not in the Boot lock motor, right?

I've also checked v53 on the bench once again, which looks very much like it should:

I've checked the cable again, and there are definitely no connections missing between any of the 6 pins in the plug that connects to the boot lock motor:

v53------j256

1--------B14 = ok
2--------B13 = ok
3--------D2 = ok
4--------D10 = ok
5--------D9 = ok
6

However, with the power on, and measuring in the plug that should connect to the Boot lock motor, I do measure pin 1 and 2 to be shorting

If I measure the same pins on the ECU, (B13 and B14), there is no short.

Could anyone advise me if this means my ECU has lost it, or if there are any other ways there could be shorts in the cable anyway?

[/img]

Inexperienced Joined: Jul 01, 2011 Posts: 49

Hi,
I finally solved my issue, turned out to be a broken ECU. It took a lot of time, but am delighted it works again. Thanks!

Newbie Joined: Jul 26, 2011 Posts: 10

Hi I have exactly the same problem but haven't replaced looms yet. Is it best to change these first or the ECU? How much are these parts from Audi? Dread to think!

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:18 pm

spammers.... Evil or Very Mad

Newbie Joined: Aug 29, 2012 Posts: 15

Hi folks
I most definite;y have the stalling deck lid after a few inches and will re-do the looms as soon as I can.
My question is this
when the rear bit of the roof lifts to allow the deck lid up it stalls here.
I know I need to fill the cylinder and do the wiring but it feels too stiff to manually push back. like really held firm,.
Is this what you would expect or am I missing something.

how does it manually fold away ????
be happy with that for right now

thanks in advance everyone

Iain
loved audis for years and took me 15 years to afford a cabrio.!!! Very Happy

Newbie Joined: Jun 14, 2013 Posts: 12

Hi, great article and photos,I have the same problem but having followed your route have removed the two nuts that hold the boot lock but still cannot get the boot open, any suggestions.

Inexperienced Joined: Sep 19, 2008 Posts: 40

Darn it, another one goes kaput!
I'm locked out of my boot, the roof operation still works fine though, except operates with boot lock both in verticle and horizontal position Sad

I still have all my carpet and trim attached in the boot, so how difficult is this going to be to release through the ski hatch? I've three options unless anyone has any better suggestions:

1) use knife on end of pole to hack away boot trim to expose lock mech nuts
2) drill out lock barrel
3) Hole saw access behind number plate and patch weld later.

Mines a '98 cab

Help much appreciated

Cheers
Nick

Newbie Joined: Apr 02, 2012 Posts: 11

hi, just a quick thanks for your info on your roof repair, i had the same problem, i had taken the car to a few auto electric places, to be told from the roof pumps faulty!, the roof controllers faulty etc, etc, even audi had no ideas? but i think that is because of the cars age!, anyway after reading your post last night, i checked what you said tonight, and and found 4 wires broken. so i resoldered them, and now it works as it should. thanks for sharing info. ian

Newbie Joined: Aug 02, 2013 Posts: 1

Hi, Great article.
I have a 97 model, I am also suffering roof problems. I have had the car 6 years without incident.

However, now the lid will not open completely, it clicks free and moves out of position and raises maybe 8 or 10 cm, but after this you can hear the motor/pump working, but nothing happens, its as if its air locked.

I have followed your hints and tips, but to no avail. Any ideas?

Newbie Joined: Jan 24, 2012 Posts: 9

Great sticky, just tracked my roof issue down to dodgy handbrake switch after reading this...! Cool

Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:25 am

Good to hear! Cool

Newbie Joined: Jul 15, 2014 Posts: 1

Please help. Roof cover box lid doesnt want to open Sad

See video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BS-Ximl1U3A
Checked: lid lock`s switches, hydraulick pump.
Supose that problem in control block unit because then you change contacts at pump lid going to open or I don`t know smth.

Newbie Joined: Mar 30, 2013 Posts: 12

Looks like im having the same problem as everyone else.......blummin broken wires in the passenger side boot loom. Well, I have now connected all 7 wires back together colour to colour and I still cant get the roof to whirr into life. The roof does detach away from the frame of the windscreen when the handle is twisted but the windows dont drop the 4/5 inches like they used to and theres no power to the roof mechanism either. is there a chance that when the wires broke in the boot loom, that something else shorted out/blew?? I havent got a vag-com machine or much electrical knowledge so im hoping someone can help me out with either abit of advice or maybe the use of their vag-com which of course i'll gladly pay as i'd rather try to do diy repairs than get ripped off at audi stealers.......(crosses fingers). The loom and wires on the drivers side look totally brand new so im guessing its a faulty handbrake sensor (the light for the handbrake does illuminate on the dash when the handbrake is applied btw), but I still dont know where the sensor is located so cant check/replace this either. Thanks in advance Smile