how can i get that shine u see on american limos?

Newbie Joined: Sep 19, 2004 Posts: 8

ive tried merr and autoglym with an electronic buffer, although the resulit is a lush dee shiney red, it doesnt seem to have that glass like glazed fininsh?

i have a massive tub of wax, i think its designed for wood, could i try that?

Posted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 10:40 pm

hold it with the wax dude!!!!!!!! Confused

i dont know what would work, but NEVER put anything on your paintwork your not completely sure of...

what about meguiars? i know several people have had very good results from thier products http://www.meguiars.com/

it just may be that your paint is just to old??
may be your expecting too much, your car in the avatar looks quite shiney enough mate Thumbs Up

but maybe the cam hasn't picked it up?
what about professional body valet expaining your needs?

getting actual CAR wax is the secret to shine, you need to build up the layers and polish it well Smile

UltraUser Joined: Jan 21, 2003 Posts: 4230

Maybe you need to cut the paint back a bit, use T-cut then Zymol for the ultimate. Maguirs is ok too they have a 3 stage application. Evil or Very Mad

Newbie Joined: Sep 19, 2004 Posts: 8

ahh i didnt tell u the full story my bad, the front wings and bonnet, have been reprayed sometime in its life id say about 4 year s ago and the paint oidises after 2 -3 weeks after a good polisg, i will just have to save for that full body respray and then ill have a good base to start on, btw i tested out the wax on the bottom of the wing, it looks good Smile

but it'l probably strip the paint off or something lol.

Posted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 11:00 pm

audi red always does this Sad

cutting the paint 2 or 3 times a year is the only way, until you have no paint left...read all this http://audifans.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=4710&sid=33a5b1556cce8ee1158dcb6c72d1c3fa

Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 10:53 am

Take care with these things. Unless you are a pro, make sure you only use a 'Random Orbital' buffer.

Here's some pics of my 90, not looking too bad.http://www.audifans.net/modules.php?set_albumName=NineNails-90&id=alltype2004_0516AS&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
Throw away that weird wax stuff and buy yerself a BIG tin of elbow grease and liberally apply to the painted surfaces of your car.
Good luck, and may God have mercy upon your soul.
Si.

Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 4:51 pm

my (green) paint was awful when i bought the car .... after a summer of meguiars three stages every week it look mint!!!

same prob as you ... the front was resprayed and didn't look fully right .... after a bit of effort it now look almost perfect

Posted: Sat Feb 19, 2005 5:45 pm

Try Demon Shine it's ment to give a mirrior like finish just pour it over your car with a capful of water and then drive away!!!!!!! Very Happy

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 8:15 pm

OLDER CARS WITH NON METALIC COLOURS DO NOT HAVE
A CLEAR COAT FINISH THE PAINT IS EXSPOSED TO SUN LIGHT
CAUSES FADING . WHEN POLISHING METALIC OR NEW CARS
YOU POLISH THE CLEAR LACQUER NOT THE PAINT THAT GIVES
THE GLASS FINISH . I USE ZYMOL WAX ON GOOD PAINT
MY S2 PAINT IS SILKY SMOOTH AND VERY SHINEY DUE TO CAREFUL
PREP. Cool

Posted: Sun May 01, 2005 6:22 pm

As a valeter who uses Meguiars I can tell you exactly how to restore red paint.

Use Meguiars Scratch X on the affected areas, then use the Meguiars 3 step cleaning system, this is

Step 1 Paint Cleaner
Step 2 Crystal Wax
Step 3 Carnauba Wax

and then get some NXT Tech wax which if used once every week or two your paint should remain gorgeously red and shiny with a brilliant finish. Scratch X is like T-cut but not as harsh on the paintwork, paint cleaner deep cleans your paintwork removing all the inpurities that get into it, then the crystal wax polishes it up, the carnauba wax shines it and then the Tech Wax is just the most awesome stuff in the world.

To apply Tech wax you should do it out of direct sunlight (Almost impossible I know but hey) you should start at the front drivers side wing, move round via the bonnet then the other wing, then the doors on the passenger side, the boot lid and rear panels, then the drivers side and then the roof. By the time you've got to the roof the wax on the drivers wing should have cured so you start there again and in exactly the same order as you applied it you should remove it using either a lint free polishing cloth or an orbital buffer.

This is about 3 hours work and the sort of thing I charge about £50 to do but provided your paintwork isn't fcuked then it'll work and it'll work well. Then all you have to do is use NXT Tech Wax every couple of weeks and it provides enough protection to KEEP your paintwork looking so great.

Audi Nut Joined: Jun 30, 2005 Posts: 60 Location: Earth

Yeah DONT put WOOD POLISH on your car is will look ok but is for WOOD not cars and will damage your paint.

Try the Autoglyem range the super shine Resin in the white bottle red label is good wash the car and add this wax when the car is still wet from the rinse of the wash and leave to dry buff the wax off and then add another 3 coats hard work but easy if you apply the wax with a damp cloth.

When finished you need to put Autoglyms HIGH GLOSS on over the wax its the white tube with the GOLD label and comes in a liquid form use the electronic buffer for this and do this twice.

Then get your sunglasses on stand back and be carefull of your eyes as your car should be shinny as hell and all for a good 2 hours work and about £16 spent on some wax and gloss that have been Endorsed by the Queen for there quality.

If you live local I will help you out I love waxing cars and would be more then happy to help you achieve that high deep shine you want..
Smile

Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:46 pm

I've seen the future and it's called 'Clay magic', check it out by doing a search on 'google', haven't seen it for sale over here yet but some guy with a porkie used it at a show recently and by all accounts it's the dogs.

Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:29 pm

Yeah !! that's the stuff Jas, the clay is graded into different coloured frogs depending on the coarseness you want, just spray the panel and rub the frog over it in a circular motion, the candy is just a promotional gimmick, i don't think they come with candy now. Are you sure you typed in 'google' and not 'booble.com' cos when i tried it it gave me this ...................

http://www.detailnet.com/catalog.php?action=110&cat_id=31
Laughing

Camped on the site Joined: Jun 13, 2005 Posts: 347

christ dont use a electric buffer it burns ya paint,i use autoglym (red label)twice them gold label twice then sit back and enjoy the veiw.

Newbie Joined: Jun 06, 2007 Posts: 6

Hi,

New guy here...have a black b5 s4 and have recently discovered the detailing world. My process to achieve a glass like, deep mirror finish was
an overall machine buff with a porter cable 7424, sfx foam pads and poorboys ssr 3 polishes. This took me about a day to complete and removed nearly all of my minor/medium scratches and swirl marks. A vast improvement! Next I clayed the car and then used a finishing polish. I used poorboys polish with carnauba blue. and then sealed the finish with again poorboys EX sealant. The result was a stunning deep black glossy mirror like finsh that exceeded my expecatations. I finished this off with a couple of coats of collinite 915 carnauba wax which added little depth to the shine and protects brilliantly. Water beads superbly and maintenance is now much easier. Would recommend to anyone. If anyone would like more info or has any questions then feel free to email me on jash@centralcrushers.co.uk I would be more than happy to help if I can

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 10:00 am

Welcome

Question though, why clay bar after swirl removal with the PC and SSR's.
Arse over tit there.

Jas..
Cool

Newbie Joined: Jun 06, 2007 Posts: 6

to be honest this was the first time I had used any of this stuff...not sure if i used the correct sequence of stages with the clay but after all the work with the ssr I didnt want to not clay and regret it so did the lot before sealing and waxing. Would you have left that stage out? Do you think the ssr would have removed everything the claying did anyway?

Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 12:48 am

No, the SSR's wouldn't have removed stubborn bonded contaminents, but doing it after scratch and swirl removal and you run the risk of marring the new finish, even being ultra careful.

If it's never been clay'd before, I'd do it after a degreasing wash, then wash the car again after the clay, dry it, then the SSR's (I prefer Menzerna gear over the SSR's after having tried both)
Then I'd glaze it, seal it (twice) and wax (twice)
Keep on top of it with a weekly wash and you shouldn't need to clay again for well over six months.

Jas..
Cool

Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 11:22 pm

My paintwork had gone past the point of no return so I've just had the sides, bonnet and front bumper resprayed. Do I need to leave it to settle before I polish it?

Dyl Shocked

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 12:03 am

Was it oven dried Dyl?

Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 8:10 pm

jas11n have u any experience with this product? Or anyone else? Friend was moving house and dumped a lot of his car stuff on me, got some nice things in it Smile

click for higher res

Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:41 am

if your after the ultimate finish then what you need to do is get it detailed, ideally by a pro. if you look on the vr6 forum (golfs!!), look for a member called sankey. he is my uncle and details cars on the side. basically what he will do is assess your paintwork and advise on the best option. usually he will take a fine layer of 'dead' paint off and build up it up from there. basically what you end up with is a 'glass' like finish on your ride. the products he uses is alot higher quality then merr, autoglym and meguirs!!!. i'll try and get some before and after shots this weekend. if your in the bradford let me know and i'll get a price for you which depends according to car size!!!! obviously i will get a discount for members!!!! pm your details.

one more thing, for his highest level of service he will need the car from 0800hrs til 1700hrs.[/b]

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 12:45 am

oven dried or left to harden by itself makes hardly any difference to paint work its the prep and polishing work that finishes the job.in my opinion with the 2 paint manufacturers ive used i found a better shine was achieved if left over night rather than baked Smile

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 1:57 pm

i use fine abrasive cream to rid me of the horrible hazey scratches in paintwork (MINES FLAT BLUE AND LAQUARED) then i use finesse-it (paint shop stuff) its a finishing agent i.e. deep polish, finer then t-cut. then use cherry glaze (again another lighter polish/wax) and it comes up spanking then i supagard (a new car showroom product, its a paint sealant. you just wash the car to get it back to how you left it before you aplied it with just a wash woot!) and do this all over again every 3-6months looks spanking when you do it. i use an electronic buffer for the first two steps to get a proper cut into it. dont do this too often. you dont want your paint running thin, only cut with cutting paste until you have desired finish then top up with wax and polish.