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daz-the-dogg
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:18 am Reply with quote Back to top

Mike would the alignment specs for the S2 Avant that you have on your site be roughly right for the 80 1.9tdi Avant?

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Mikes2
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 12:11 pm Reply with quote Back to top

The front - probably. Rear - not so sure.

Is the rear toe adjustable on a fwd avant ?

Any decent alignment rig will have the alignment spec built in.
 
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daz-the-dogg
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 5:29 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Ok thanks for that Mike.
From what I've read no the rears arent adjustable on the 2wd's just the 4wd's, just the front camber and toe, reason I'm asking is that I'm in the process of rebuilding the front end on my 80, top mounts (totally shot), steering joints, inner bushes (totally shot), drop links (totally shot) etc, and I'd like to get my geometry fairly close to what it should be before taking it and having it set properly on a geometry rig.
I have read from 1 of Nogins replies to another thread concerning front subframe alignment, which im going to check at the same time, which below is in his words

"When all 4 subframe bolts are undone and the pressure on the antiroll bar is taken off, also undo/slacken the gearbox mount or mounts in case of quattro and support + disconect both ball joints to the hubs.

Then... if you were sat on the floor in front of the car holding the subframe with both hands, you need to pull the subframe forward with your right hand and push back with your left hand untill it hits the max/stops.

Basicly for the camber on our roads the near side wheel has to be ahead of the offside, they are not exactly aligned.
So many people assume that tracking is responsible for pulling to the left, this is 99.9% not always the case

Hope the above makes some sense to you?

nog"

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Mikes2
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 7:02 pm Reply with quote Back to top

The front subframe pivots. The front right (that's driver side nearest the front of the car on a rhd) bolt is fixed and the other 3 float allowing adjustment.

If you've not had the subframe off, I'd be inclined to leave it where it is. The other way of adjusting is to measure from the subframe mount bolts to a fixed point in the middle of the car. you should have an equal reading on both sides

As a general rule, if I do something like this I try to get the track rod adjuster bar and the ball joints roughly in the middle of the adjustment. It won't be exact but it should be roughly in the ball park to make it safe to drive for your alignment.

Remember you should really run 1000km (630 miles) after fitting before getting it aligned. This allows all your parts to settle
 
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merton
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 6:35 pm Reply with quote Back to top

As you are doing all the front, have you done the rear mounts / bushes? the play in the rear axle on my original bushes was terrible, now i have fitted poly bushes the axle is solid, try jacking up the rear end, both sides, and see if there is any play. the rear suspension will be as bad as the front. i cant say for sure, but from my experiance with my subframe what nogin says does not sound right to me, i will have a look in the manual to see if there is anything, i think this push/pull is to do with setting the camber will the audi tool??
 
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